Day 2 - Monday 11 April 2022
Just under a week since our first walk, Michala and I set off on the second leg of The Ridgeway National Trail, leaving home at 6:30am to drop our cars at the end and start points of our hike.
We picked up where we had left off, at Fox Hill, pausing to admire the tumulus on top of the newly ploughed field before setting off at a good pace up the hill. We started as we intended to go on, with our statutory shortbread to fuel us on the way.
Once we had climbed the first stretch, the landscape opened out to reveal a patchwork of fields. Those newly ploughed, glinted silvery grey, whilst others showed a hint of green as new shoots pushed through, contrasting with the vibrant yellow of the rapeseed flowers. Every step of the way we were in awe of the beauty and grandness of the vistas before us. We passed the gentle slopes of the downs to the south and spectacular combes to the north.
Anthony Burton’s guide to The Ridgeway refers to the pigs rootling among their corrugated iron shelters and as if on cue, there they were. We continued on, enjoying the country smells including the open barn with bales of hay and silage beyond. Lines of trees provided the perfect windbreak as the prevailing winds still played havoc, leaving us with burning faces by the end of the day.
Paths led off left and right through fields of crops. However, today we were quite decided that we had to pay particular attention to the finger posts and be sure not to lose our way. We had 17.5 miles to cover.
Around 10am we arrived at Wayland’s Smithy. We listened to the spirits sighing among the trees while we enjoyed a much needed early lunch. Whilst there, we chatted with another trekker, laden with backpack, who told us tales of his walk and his plans to cover 10 miles a day. At the time it seemed like a stroll to us but in hindsight we realised that, walking on 8 consecutive day, it is perhaps enough. After over 17 miles each day for us, we certainly need our recovery time.
The trail seemed busier today as we encountered walkers, horse riders and cyclists. Arriving at Uffington Castle we climbed over a stile and walked along the grassy slopes, in search of the white horse. It would have been easier to see the whole of the horse had we descended to Dragon’s Hill or the manger, however, we knew that the climb back up would be too much considering the distance we already had to cover. We thought how nice it would be if The White Horse was the local Public House as we could have done with a refreshing glass of cider. However, we had to be content with water. It was just as well that a mile or so on we found a tap of drinking water along the path.
We continued along the rutted paths as chaffinches flitted about in the blackthorn blossoms and sheep lazed in the sunshine.
Passing Segsbury Castle we looked across a carpet of cowslips laid out in front of the high ramparts of the fort. The landscape was awash with colour and when Michala was not photographing the bright yellow rapeseed flowers she was sniffing them. (Periton ready at home).
The sunshine colours were a-plenty with yellowhammers in the hawthorn. Apparently as male yellowhammers age their chests becoming a more vibrant yellow.
High above the hawthorn some other creatures whirled their wings in flight.
6 years ago, when I first trod these paths, I had the towers of Didcot power station to help me keep my bearings. However, since then they have been demolished. While looking out at the remaining towers, we felt we were being watched. Sure enough a set of twins eyed us up, pursuing their lips as if sucking on imperial mints.
Leaving them behind we arrived at the memorial erected for Baron Wantage who had served in the Crimean War and who was awarded the Victoria Cross for his actions at the Battle of Alma in September 1854. (The same Baron who paid for the statue of King Alfred that stands at the centre of Wantage).
As we neared the end of our trek the wilds of nature and agriculture were at odds with industry as a herd of Sika deer stood against a backdrop of factory chimneys.
The Ridgeway means a lot to so many people as can be seen by the scattering of benches along the way with tributes to lost loved ones. Flowers can often be seen woven into fence lines. We found this very touching tribute pinned to an oak tree.
Just as rain was approaching we arrived at Bury Lane just off the A34. (The road that runs from Newbury to Oxford). We had walked just under 19 miles which included detours to The White Horse and Scutchamer Knob. We were exhausted but felt as exhilarated as the skylarks high above, having completed another amazing day walking The Ridgeway National Trail.
The read about our third day along the Ridgeway National Trail click below: