It has been six weeks since we completed our first leg of the Thames Path National Trail. So when we finally agreed a date for our next expedition, I think both Michala and I were counting down the days and just hoping that bad weather would not prevail. Someone was watching over us, blessing us with the very best day we could have hoped for.
Morning light
As we sped down the M4 in our separate cars on Saturday 19th November, we could see how morning’s first light was painting gold on the landscape. The forecast had dictated we would have this perfect light until 11am, after which it would be replaced by 100% cloud cover. There was not a minute to spare. We dropped our first car at the end point of our walk, which today would be Lechlade in Gloucester, and then we continued on in one car to Cricklade in Wiltshire, where we had left off on our first outing.
Setting the Tone
Photo by Michala Falk
Parking up, we donned our boots and I gathered together my camera gear. I casually commented that I would be bringing my new ‘nifty-fifty’ with me today. Michala looked spritely at me and I realised she assumed I was referring to her. (For those of you inexperienced with photography - a ‘nifty-fifty’ is a 50mm lens). However, I felt it was a befitting name to bestow upon my friend so, from now on, or at least for this year, I will think of Michala as the ‘nifty-fifty’. From that point I just knew this day would be an uplifting experience.
Cause for Celebration
Six weeks ago, we searched. We scoured the landscape. We peeped through reeds and hedgerows but failed to find our river. We had felt as if we were at one of Gatsby’s great parties but he never showed up. Would today be any different?
As we walked from the edge of Cricklade’s rugby pitch to join The Thames Path we came to an immediate halt. The answer was before us. This was totally unexpected. There was our host. Not standing still, but flowing at a pace, showing us the direction we would move. Today we had the company for which we had not dared hope. Today was going to be a good day. We felt it in the air.
We celebrated, as is our way, by breaking open a packet of shortbread and munching it as we proceeded with a spring in our step.
Across County Boundaries
With the river on the right we were surprised to find many swans roosting in fields of lentil (according to Siri, if he can be believed). We left them behind as we crossed over to the north bank and into Wiltshire. We would find ourselves criss-crossing between counties several times on this day.
After the dry landscape of six weeks ago we were amazed at the amount of water on the flood plain, reflecting that azure sky. We walked past reedbeds, backlit by the low sun, soft heads like a kitten’s. (Only Michala would compare a reed head to a baby bunny rabbit).
Among the reed banks the swans glided along luminous waters, rippling through reflected trees. Willows gleamed, with their last remaining leaves catching the sunlight like gilded feathers.
The boughs of oaks trees, still adorned with their cloaks of green over hung the swelling river. Secretive wrens dashed across to the opposite bank and a little robin sent out a warning of ‘tic tic’. Every step of the way was a delight.
Fields of Gold
Some distance on, we were presented with another unexpected sight which brought to mind the joys we had experienced walking The Ridgeway National Trail.
Walking through a break in the hedge we encountered fields of gold. Not barley but rapeseed, looking vibrant and bringing warmth to the landscape. What a joy to see this reminder of warmer days along a different national trail.
A Chattering Along the Way
We were not alone, as we followed the trail, never far from flocks of redwing gorging on berries, taking flight as we approached, chattering along the way, not unlike the pair of us.
On we strode through golden copse and leaf strewn paths only to find ourselves passing under an archway of trees and yet again finding more golden fields.
Then out onto the flood plains, tiptoeing over puddles and loving our reliable Scarpa hiking boots, keeping our feet dry and warm.
What of this threat of cloud? It was nearing lunch time and still the blanket we had expected to ease across the sky had not appeared. Someone was truly watching over us.
As the river flowed downstream so did we, along with a flow of conversation catching up on each other’s news until finally we found ourselves in the pretty village of Castle Eaton, Wiltshire with houses of Cotswold stone lining the streets.
A Seat in the Sun
We turned off the path to check out The Church of St Mary, entering the gates and following a path between ivy clad walls, and up the path to a church with a sunny disposition. Even the golden cockerel high on top of the central bell turret had sat down to enjoy the sun.
Despite signs saying the church was open,we were unable to gain access to this Grade I listed building, which apparently features a wonderful wall painting but, according to their website, the church is currently closed due to ongoing repairs.
Taking advantage of the sunny outlook, we sat on the warm bench by the gates to enjoy a much needed lunch and talked longingly of dropping into the Red Lion for a half of cider but knowing, realistically, with limited hours of light in the month of November, we had no choice but to continue on our way.
We followed the grassy paths and tree lined banks turning right at Bridge Farm, the warm Cotswold stone covered in a cloak of ivy. Then, turning away from the Thames we were led along puddled lanes overhung by weeping willow.
A Vote of Thanks to Landowners
Thanks to negotiations between managers of the National Trail and landowners we no longer have to trod alongside the busy A361, as other have trod before us. Instead, we found ourselves by our beloved Thames again as we skirted pastures and flooded fields, eventually arriving at Upper Inglesham and the 13th century Church of St John the Baptist.
Bizarrely, we walked on failing to give this, apparently exquisite church due attention, no doubt engrossed in some conversation. I have since read that the church was saved by William Morris who restored it in keeping with its original design. Restoration is ongoing even today and the wall paintings are seven layers thick in places. I hang my head in shame that we missed this treat and fully intend to return when I can. I have no doubt Michala will be up for this too. (Note to self - I need to do more research into points of interest along the way to avoid repeating this oversight).
From the Exquisite to the Macabre
This trail was certainly dishing out the surprises. Hopefully just a leftover from Halloween and not due to some other macabre dealings, we sighted a bald headed lady who had lost a struggle only to be swallowed up in the mud before making her escape over a barbed wire fence.
A bird of prey stared up at us blindly suffering a similar fate. It was a spine chilling sight and not at all in tune with the tone of our day. I preferred to hurry on, whilst Michala seemed drawn to the place, very much amused, as was someone else in the garden beyond.
Thankfully, Michala agreed to continue with me as the light began to fade and we headed toward the Round House that sits at the end of the Severn-Thames canal and would have housed the lengthsman who looked after this stretch of the canal.
Journey’s End
As our walk was nearing its end and the sun’s final glow spread across the horizon, we slowed our pace, sad today’s walk was coming to an end but very satisfied that our calculations were correct and we were able to complete this 11 mile stretch in daylight, our head torches remaining firmly in the bottom of our bags. We lingered to watch the sun sinking low beyond the butt of the canal before turning towards Lechlade.
Suddenly the character of the Thames had changed and we found boats and barges moored to the banks and diners enjoying the last of the November sunlight at The Riverside pub, watched by a lone fisherman in the shade of the south bank.
With a glimpse of the Half Penny bridge we turned back and cut across the meadows to our car and headed for home, happy that we had been blessed with such a fine day.
Read about our third leg of the Thames Path from Lechlade to Tadpole Bridge Thames Path Day 3
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