The Three Castles Path - Day 5

On Saturday 4^th April 2026 Michala and I set off on the final leg of King John’s trail along the Three Castles Path from Windsor to Winchester.  This was going to be the easiest stretch of our hike.  Unlike King John, we saw no need to gallop our way to journey’s end. 

From Itchen Abbas 

Today we used one car as my brother, who resides in Winchester, had agreed to drop us back to Itchen Abbas at the end of our day.  We parked up in the car park of St John’s Church, Itchen Abbas.  We were unable to look inside the church when we arrived at 7:30am but we did get a chance to check it out later when we returned to the car. 

Whilst I headed for the lychgate in search of our path, Michala was sorting out her boots.  Coming straight towards me was this creature pedalling at speed in a hi-viz jacket.  He came to a sharp halt directly in front of me before I realised it was none other than my twin brother.   This was highly unexpected at such an early hour.  Had we not dallied he would have missed us by a hair’s breath as no cyclists are allowed along much of our route. Now there was no escape ;-) 

Clyde promised to meet us further along our hike as the path crisscrossed over village roads. He also promised us a Royal Banquet at his humble abode in Winchester when our hike along the Three Castles Path was complete.  (However, I think I was confused between the banquets of King John and the sustenance of King Alfred when he sought refuge in the Somerset Levels and legend has it that he burnt the cakes).    

It was a cold, day with grey skies above and an element of precipitation in the air.  However, as normal our spirits were high.  We ambled along through tunnels of greenery where the hawthorn foliage was just beginning to make an appearance.  The paths were lined with celandines, deadnettle and yellow archangel. 

The frothy blackthorn of the last month was on the turn, giving off a hint of gold as it revealed buds ready to break into leaf. 

Down along the River Itchen the cetti’s warbler’s song resounded among the tangled reedbeds, close by but well hidden.  Meanwhile a pair of swans dabbled in search of aquatic plants to feed on, occasionally ducking down. 

To the Rescue

Along the path, near Chilland, we heard the buzz of some insects, perhaps a swarm.  No, wait a minute, Hampshire Search and Rescue were checking up on us, ensuring safe passage along this treacherous terrain where who knows what vagrants may lurk.  Wait a minute, lurking along the grassy path was my twin.

Clyde put me in mind of Hughie Green’s Opportunity Knocks when plate spinning was a popular act.  Clyde seemed to think he could control his drone by pointing his finger skyward.

Easter Celebration

We lingered a short while enjoying out Easter gift, before splitting again and continuing to Martyr Worthy.

The path ahead was strewn with the catkins of the hornbeam.

The distant meadows appeared a sunny yellow through the misly rain.

How Great Thou Art

Passing under boughs of blossom laden branches, we entered the ancient church of St Swithuns, which dates back to 1140.  There was a soft calming feel within, as the gentle melody of How Great Thou Art filled the nave.  The 10 Commandments were inscribed over the arch leading to the chancel.  Michala remained a while mesmerised by the music whilst I explored the churchyard.

We continued along the River Itchen crossing over footbridges to look down upon the fast-flowing stream, lined by trees starting to don their springtime coats.  

Easton Thatch and Blossoms

Arriving in Easton, we were met again by our HANTSAR guardian.  (I should point out that since retiring Clyde has been heavily involved in volunteering for Hampshire Search and Rescue which has included drone observer certification and flight tests).   

We stopped in front of the thatched cottages to share some buttery shortbread.  It was too early to stop by the Chestnut Horse public house, so we turned off to follow the fenced path and walked through fields lined with primroses.  Exiting the field, we saw evidence of Easter celebrations with a tree decorated with brightly coloured eggs. 

In the church of St Mary, a lady was busy decorating the font. Vases of lilies were lined up ready to adorn the church.  Apparently, we would have been treated to tea and cakes had we arrived later. 

The entrance of the church reminded me of tt St Mary’s, Hartley Wintney where we had seen a similar zig zag stone sculpting arch over the door on day 3 of our hike.  We stood outside to enjoy the far reaching views.

Gathering Congregation

We rejoined the path taking us through a meadow where there was a different type of congregation.  A herd of cows had gathered to welcome us.  I do not rate myself as a ‘group photographer’ but having recently been booked to work on some Prom images this was a great opportunity to practise.  Thankfully these chaps arranged themselves beautifully.  One was particularly interested in having a headshot.   

We crossed the field with the congregation following us all the way like some Easter parade.  Michala had just been discussing Seville’s Holy Week procession and these boys were like the hooded penitents.  However, one of them destroyed that illusion as he revealed a lack of respect toward Michala, sticking his tongue out.  If they could have broken through the gate, I think they would have followed us all the way to Winchester. 

Leaving behind our pied friends we were escorted by Clyde through the graffitied tunnel under the M3. 

This stretch of the path seemed very bedraggled with fences toppling over and glimpses of ugly roadworks seen through the hedges.  We crossed over a series of footbridges with pretty riverside cameos distracting us from the noise of motorway traffic.

We followed the lovely blackthorn paths until we found the brutal development of roadworks on Easton Down. 

The aim is to create ‘free flowing’ links between the M3 and A34.  The promise for us is to improve pedestrian paths along the Itchen and close the gap in the National Cycle Network with a proposed end date of 2030.  So perhaps it would be worth a return visit then but for the moment it is a sorry sight and the rain, now falling, reflected a slightly forlorn mood as we entered the ‘capital of Saxon England’, Winchester.   

We walked along Water Lane arriving in no time at Bridge Street and the heart of the city.  We walked over St Swithun’s Bridge to look down on the racing water. 

The Legend of King Alfred

Before continuing along the Three Castles Path we stopped to checkout King Alfred, hoping that Clyde, who had left us a mile back to head home and bake cheese scones would not be distracted and burn them. 

We continued a short way along The Broadway to admire the Guildhall.  Then we popped into the Abbey Gardens where I hung out nearly 30 years ago with as my eldest daughter Harriet played in the sandpit with her cousins. 

To Spring 

Then picking up the Three Castles Path again we walked alongside the flintstone wall of Wolvesley Castle now the site of the Baroque style, Bishop’s Palace.  Blossoms of apple and plum brightened up the day. Here are the 'songs to spring', John Keats, I say. 'They are here' in blossoms bright and fresh, with 'rosy hue' as the song thrush sings in joyful choir.

We pressed on past Winchester College and the house where Jane Austen died. 

We found the Royal Coat of Arms in the archway of Priory Gate, leading into the Cathedral Close.  This commemorates Queen Elizabeth II visit in 1996. 

Beyond the arch we stopped to admire the beautiful timbered buildings of Cheney Court.

We paused at the Deanery bookstall to rummage through boxes of books.  I was particularly drawn to a box of Georgette Heyer novels all of which I read in my teens, exciting my interest in ancient trails and highway men, dandies and heiresses.  

From there my love of the Regency period led me to Jane Austen.

Normally we would have been drawn to the bench in front of the japonica as the ideal lunch spot, but on this occasion we had high hopes for steaming bowls of soup and hot buttered cheese scones waiting for us.  

We passed the cloisters and under the flying buttresses to arrive at the West Door of Winchester Cathedral. 

Journey's End

From there we continued through the milling crowds of Saturday shoppers, to arrive at Westgate and on to Castle Hill and the Great Hall. 

Might we have heard King John’s horse’s hooves echoing around the courtyard to arrive at journey’s end, the third and final castle of the Three Castles Path.  Winchester was once a splendid castle built by William the Conqueror but destroyed by Cromwell. 

We explored the ruins of this, the third and final castle of the Three Castles Path.

Our hike was complete.  Five wonderfully varied hikes totalling 60 miles (according to the guidebook but according to Strava it was just under 70 miles). 

Our sense of achievement was palpable.  It was time to celebrate with a right royal banquet courtesy Clyde and his family.