On Wednesday 31st August, a month since our last hike, we set off on our final leg of The Ridgeway National Trail. This was going to be a challenging 12 miles along an undulating landscape. However we were fortunate that at last the weather had settled at a comfortable 18-20°C after many weeks of the highest temperatures on record. This was going to be a breeze and, besides, we had with us our usual source of fuel - shortbread fingers. (In fact, thanks to Michala’s generous supply, I think by the end of our trek we had eaten all fingers and some toes).
Having already dropped one car a mile from our final destination, we started our walk from Wendover. It was a short walk down the high street and a flick off right between the river and the play park to the church. From there on we saw very few people along the route. We followed the lane between high hedges and banks, past an avenue of beech trees, stopping briefly to enjoy one last look at the open landscape before entering Wendover Woods. I was glad to have Michala’s company for this stretch because I had remembered 6 years ago finding it hard to walk through woodland for 2 hours, in the early morning, not meeting a soul. It had felt eerie. This time our laughter rang out between the trees and we enjoyed the soft chill of the shady paths. It was refreshing to find so much greenery around after views of parched landscapes.
We continued for miles under the canopy and along sunken paths, all part of Grim’s Ditch which we had first encountered in Oxfordshire. The name Grim’s Ditch refers to ancient earthworks and not, as Michala suggested, an angry troll, called Grim, who guards his ditch from trespassers like us. (Michala, you may be confusing him with The Brothers Grimm and their tales of scary characters such as Rumpelstiltskin).
On we trod from Wendover Woods to Northill Woods to Tring Park. In the broadleaf woodland of Tring Park the Brothers Grimm and Hansel and Gretel came to mind. We had a choice of paths, the Ridgeway on the right. However Michala, drawn to the hidden follies of the Rothschild estate, strayed off the path like Gretel tempted by the gingerbread house. I thought of Hansel leaving his trail of crumbs on the forest floor so that he and Gretel could find their way home however, we had already eaten our lunch.
After two hours of forest walks at last we were treated to open views, as we looked down through the meadows and trees to Tring, the Natural History Museum and the Old Mansion House. We were in Hertfordshire. The Ridgeway travers Wiltshire, Oxfordshire, Berkshire, Buckinghamshire and this beautiful corner of Hertfordshire.
Out of the woods we continued alongside grasslands, bare and dry, grazed upon by sheep who regarded us with suspicion and fear. (Who can blame them). However, they seemed unperturbed by the presences of a crocodile.
We paced it out with the roar of traffic rising, finding ourselves confronted with a pedestrian bridge across the A41. The bridge is safe and sturdy but I found myself having to look ahead to avoid sensing the dizzy heights.
We had started our adventure in spring and now there was evidence of autumn with berries appearing on the trees, the scarlet berries of viburnum.
Just outside Tring, near the station, we crossed over two bridges bringing to mind some more of the masterful engineering works we had seen along the way, including Brunel’s bridge near Goring on Thames. This time we passed over the Grand Union Canal and our very next bridge took us over the London to Birmingham railway line which was a feat of great engineering managed by Robert Stephenson in the 1830s, when a deep cutting had to be made through the Chilterns. It was all done by hand using pick axes and shovels. Hard labour indeed.
Then just a little more woodland before we reached the high grasslands of the ridge. Far below, we saw a chalk pit, reminding us that chalk has been a dominant feature of this ancient trail contributing to a richness of wildflowers and giving shape to the landscape. The nature of its geology has made it suitable for traders, drovers and walkers over the centuries.
High up on the ridge stood a lone tree, an elder with its pendulus clusters of dark berries.
Meanwhile the Texel sheep eyed us whilst keeping their distance, chewing contemplatively.
Our pathway lay stretched out before us with a clear view of journey’s end. We still had a few ascents and descents ahead of us. We enjoyed the flat grassy path while we could.
We skirted the deep sided Incombe Hole where only sheep dared face the climb.
Far down below, on the edge of Ivinghoe, stood a post mill, its sails motionless, failing to catch the wind as the whole mill needs to be turned to bring the sails to the wind.
At last, we had done it! Who can blame her for looking chuffed. We had walked 87 miles (plus a few detours) of gorgeous English countryside immersing ourselves in the natural and ancient history the route has offered up. It was time to celebrate. How about a finger of shortbread for a change.
We lingered, enjoying the 360° views including a lion roaming on the Chilterns, free from his enclosure at Whipsnade Zoo, the rolling hills of the Chilterns and the Vale of Aylesbury.
It was with a great deal of reluctance that we eventually wrenched ourselves away from the fabulous views, bringing to a close one massive adventure, Michala assuring me that endings mean new beginnings. It's time to plan our next challenge.
If my blog has inspired you to get out and walk the Ridgeway checkout the details and plan your route here https://www.nationaltrail.co.uk/en_GB/trails/the-ridgeway/