Richmond to Waterloo Bridge
On Monday 23rd December, whilst many were on their way home to spend Christmas with their families or doing last minute shopping, Michala and I managed to meet up for what we imagined would be our penultimate walk along the Thames Path National Trail.
We took the train to Richmond upon Thames and then hopped onto a bus to Kew Bridge. (Part of the path between Richmond and Kew has collapsed into the river so rather than crossing over Richmond Bridge and walking the the busy roads to Brentwood and from there to Kew we preferred to get straight to Kew).
By 9:40am we were in place and after our signatory nibble on a piece of shortbread we were on our way.
The Stark Beauty of Winter
It was one of those lovely crisp winter’s mornings - cold but with bright blue skies. It could not have been more perfect but the hint of a mackerel sky suggested a change was on the way. For the moment the Thames was a pretty silken silvery blue with only the slightest of breezes disturbing the surface in places. We heard the cries of black headed gulls swooping down to join the cormorants whilst they fished. The scraping honks of Egyptian Geese filled the air as they called out to one another on a small island between the banks of the river. Thankfully it was their ‘noise’ that filled the air and not, as one might expect, the sounds of traffic. The path seemed remarkably peaceful.
There was a certain stark beauty about the naked trees, with rays from the low sun breaking through their leafless branches.
14 Bridges over the River Thames
Kew railway bridge was the second out of what would be a total of 14 bridges we would pass today. Right on queue a train raced over the tracks heading for Gunnersbury and beyond, its red doors contrasting beautifully against the blue sky. We were grateful for the spindly fingers of twigs being the only thing that blocked our view of the river. Another season and we would have experienced tantalising glimpses of the river beyond a coat of green.
Barely under one bridge and the next came into view. This time, the road bridge to Chiswick.
Rick Stein or a Meal Deal?
Approaching Barnes Railway Bridge we passed by the Rick Stein restaurant but opted for a Sainsbury’s meal deal instead, packing it away in our bags for fuelling later.
Talking of eating, we seemed to be eating up the miles, travelling from one bridge to the next with ease. We were walking at a good pace.
Sealing the Day
We were amazed to find out that the Thames is home to grey seals and harbour seals. Last count, in August of this year, there were 599 harbour seals and 2988 grey seals. Michala was desperate for a sighting and was constantly scouring the shore but I expect we are more likely to see them basking in spring and summer. Today was hardly the weather.
Examining the shore made me aware of just of how much the character of the river had changed. The exposed beaches reminded us of the tidal nature of the river as opposed to the banks before Teddington. There were swans-a-plenty and a convoy of Canadian geese swimming in formation.
Repair Costs
At Barnes we discovered the very beautiful Grade II listed Hammersmith Bridge. This is one of the oldest suspension bridges in the UK. I remember driving over the bridge just to visit friends in Putney, perhaps 30 years ago but now it is only open to pedestrians and cyclists. It is expected to cost in the region of £250M to repair.
Bird Seed or Shortbread?
We encountered a brave little robin. He was curious about us and not inclined to fly away as we got closer. Michala placed some shortbread crumbs on the palm of her hand and he made a dash for the sugary treat and then flitted onto a low branch. He appeared to be building up his courage to try again. However, the occasional joggers and cyclists made him nervous and so he eventually flew off.
Really, considering we were now walking in London, it was remarkably quiet. We were struck by how peaceful the walk was as we continued on our way. Of course, many city dwellers would perhaps have left town to visit family over the Christmas period and this was one of our few weekday walks so people might have been at work.
A Grand Facade
We passed under the facade of the Harrods Furniture Despository - a very grand neo-classical building designed in 1809 by William Hunt, not to be confused with the founding member of the pre-Raphaelite brotherhood. It is an impressive building for what was effectively no more than a warehouse.
A Rowing Pioneer
We discovered a memorial erected to indicate the one mile mark along the Thames Championship rowing course and paying respect to one of the greatest pioneers of rowing. Steve Fairbairn was an Australian who settled in England and coached rowers in Jesus’ College Cambridge and Thames Rowing Club.
From rowing to football - Craven Cottage, Fulham’s Football stadium loomed up ahead.
Mudlarking
Much of the river activities remained the same as we have observed across the 15 days we have spent walking the Thames Path National Trail from the source. Rowers still skulled on the water but, where previously narrow boats had been a common sight as they chugged up and down stream, now we were seeing the Thames clipper speed past sending out deep ripples in its wake. The fishermen were replaced by people mudlarking along the foreshore.
Mudlarkers were searching the river bed for lost and discarded items. In the 1800s this was a way of making money and staying out of the workhouse but today it is a way of learning about the past. Today’s mudlarkers can no longer sell the items they find. They have to have a license to mudlark and report their finds, no matter how mundane, to the Portable Antiquities Scheme. They cannot sell the items but they may be able to keep them.
If you want to know more you can listen to ‘Talk of the Thames’ podcast conversation with Lara Maiklem author of ‘Mudlarking Lost and Found in the River Thames’.
Many people talk about how dirty the Thames is because it is brown. It is brown because it is tidal, the incoming tide churning sediment. It is a highly biodiverse environment, full of life. 125 species of fish have been recorded in the tidal Thames of which 40 are resident.
A Blitz on Wildlife
Work is now being carried out to re-create habitat for wildlife with the re-planting of flowers like loosestrife and irises involving architects to ensure flood defences are not compromised. Building debris is placed on rooftop gardens to attract black redstarts. Redstarts were a common sight during the Blitz when they hopped about among the rubble of bomb sites.
A Political Drama
Between Wandsworth and Battersea we were rerouted for a short distance off the Thames Path National Trail. We found ourselves walking past London’s only heliport. I was reminded of the political tussle in the mid 1980s between Michael Heseltine and Maggie Thatcher over Westland Helicopters. Back then I took a keen interest as this was unfolding on my doorstep, my home being Wandsworth. We lingered for a moment, peering in through the fence hoping a helicopter might come in to land.
Then on to one of my favourite bridges - Albert Bridge. The light was fading on this winter’s day but it had not dropped quite enough yet for the lights to come on. Albert Bridge needs to be seen at night time to be fully appreciated. Leaving it behind we crossed over the road and into Battersea Park.
Peace in the Park
In the middle of the park sits a little piece of Japan with the Peace Pagoda. We were too late in the day to see the Buddhist monk who beats his drum at sunrise but we saw evidence of the offering of food from the local bakery left for his sustenance. The monk spends his day meditating and maintaining the pagoda. This is intended as place of peace and quiet away from the frenetic pace of the city. It is not always respected as people tend to see it as a climbing frame for adults and children, leaving the monk to cleanup after them. We circumnavigated the second floor of the pagoda and then continued on our way.
A Power House of Activity
Just beyond Chelsea Bridge we were confronted with a very different vibe. It was not just the loud colours at the entrance to the subway leading to Battersea Power Station but also the crowds and the fun fair. So this was where everyone was congregating.
Whilst I would normally shy away from such places there was no holding back Michala. She had spotted one of our favourite creatures - a highland cow. Thankfully she did not purchase a ticket to take a shot at the fairground game to win a cow as we would have had to pay for an extra train ticket to get him a seat home. She was content to have her photo taken next to him as she reminisced happily about our encounter with highland cows near Hackpen Hill along the Ridgeway National Trail.
Deciding it was not practical for me to go down the helter-skelter on a mat whilst holding my camera gear, we walked on by.
Babylon on Thames
Once again we were rerouted away from the Thames for a short distance but it took us past a series of interesting buildings including the US Embassy and the MI6 building, otherwise known as ‘Babylon on Thames’. It has to be viewed from the north bank to appreciate this nickname or just watch James Bond’s Skyfall as M jumps out of her sedan on Vauxhall Bridge to witness an explosion which she has unwittingly ignited from her laptop. Fortunately there were no such dramas today and we scurried on under the scrutiny of CCTV cameras and signs clearly stating no photography was allowed.
Old Father Thames
Back to the tranquility of the Thames and quite rightly we were reminded of Old Father Thames whom we had last met at St John’s lock. This time he appeared on a terracotta relief ‘naked, muscular and mythical’ as he carries a dolphin above his head and is surrounded by a variety of sea creatures.
Many times I have walked past the lampposts lighting the paths along the Thames but as usual, with Michala’s eye for detail, she pointed out to me their tribute to our hero, Old Father Thames. The man himself peered out at us from the base of the lamps as scaly fish wrapped themselves around the posts and fronds intertwined there way up to the glowing globe above.
Totally absorbed by our surroundings we were oblivious of the now fine rain falling, the evening lights, reflected on the gleaming flag stones. We were approaching Westminster with Big Ben’s clock face shining out like a full moon.
The Female Spies of the SOE
Opposite 'the mother of parliaments' and standing before Lambeth Palace was a monument to Violette Szabo representing all the brave Special Operations Executives who worked as spies in countries under occupation during WWII. When I was 14 I read 'Carve her Name with Pride' by RJ Minney and was swept away by her courage. Her story was adapted into a film starring Virginia McKenna. I also remember watching Dame Anna Neagle in 'Odette', the story of Odette Samson. The film 'A Call to Spy' tells the story of 'the limping lady', Virgina Hall and features Noor Inayat Khan (Nora Baker), the first female wireless operator to be sent to France. Many of these women were awarded the George Cross, the highest recognition of gallantry for a civilian but sadly it was only Odette Samson who received hers in person whilst the others were awarded them posthumously.
The Wall
We passed by Lambeth Bridge and then made a shocking discovery. Its effect reminded me of my first visit to Tyne Cot cemetery near Passendale. As I had rounded the memorial to be confronted by rows of stark white grave stones, a marked hush fell among the 165 students we led on a school trip there. This time it was just Michala and I rendered speechless by the sudden sight of the Covid Wall. I had no idea such a thing existed. It was an emotional, moving discovery to find this wall covered in hundreds of painted hearts and written on them were messages of love for family and friends lost during the Covid pandemic. A massive 246,238 men, women and children with Covid-19 as the cause of death on their death certificate.
Drawing the Crowds
By contrast, from the aura of silence enshrouding the wall we stepped across Westminster Bridge into the melee of tourists taking their selfies.
We pushed our way through crowds and passed the ‘attractions’ of Sealife, the London Dungeons and the London Eye.
I felt like we were being spun around on the merry go round as the carousel music played out.
Finding the Way
We abandoned the bright colours and cacophony to stroll on bringing into view the white dome of St Paul’s - a fitting end to this leg of our journey, reminding us of the end point of our previous walk, showing us The Way, with a view of St Pauls 10 miles away as the crow flies.
You can read all about our final day walking along the Thames Path to the Thames Barrier by clicking here
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