The Thames Path - Day 9

Mapledurham to Sonning

It was with a fair bit of trepidation that we started our 9th day along the Thames Path National Trail. Having already encountered a diversion on Day 7, we checked online and saw that if we were to choose Henley as our final stop we would be incorporating a 2.2 mile diversion away from Marsh Lock. On a hot day this was just going to be too much.

Planning our Route

We looked at parking places for Shiplake and it seemed that much of Shiplake is privately owned by Shiplake College. We could not be 100% certain that there was any access from the river up into Shiplake without tresspassing on their private property. A finish here was going to be too risky a choice.

Eventually we came to the decision to cut our walk even shorter going from Mapledurham Drive to Sonning on Thames. Knowing Sonning we knew that this was not such a bad idea and for once it would give us time to enjoy this pretty village and drop into one of my favourite cafés. At least today was not a Monday so there was a good chance the café would be open.

Thunder in the Air

We arrived at Mapledurham Drive at 8am ready to take on today's challenge. It was hot and humid and already raining a little with steely grey skies above. Nevertheless we both elected to leave behind waterproofs as we doubted very much we would want to wear them in this heat with projected temperatures rising to 29°C by midday. The prospect of getting wet felt quite attractive.

Petrichor

The first mile or so of our walk had us weaving through residential estates. There was something extremely attractive about the smell of the rain as it fell on the warm tarmac. For me, this triggered a childhood memory. In fact I may have mentioned it before, in a previous blog - I distinctly remember the summer of 1976 when the sun raged with record breaking temperatures from May to August. The day that rain came, bouncing off our newly tarmaced drive, releasing that hot, humid smell was magical. My siblings and I stood with the gargage door open looking out at this miraculous, longed for, rain. I just could not help myself. There was no holding me back. I ran out into the curtains of rain, dancing and twirling, laughing with glee. A joyful celebration. My own rain dance. Little did I know then that 'petrichor' is a thing. 'The moment rain kisses the arid ground magic happens' .

This was just exactly what we needed to set us off in the right frame of mind. I no longer dreaded this first leg away from the river. It was quiet and calm and not the unattractive urban grime that I had expected.

Forest Bathing

It was not long at all before we found ourselves in woodland and then the sense of calm felt even more intense. Perhaps it was the transition from warm and sultry to cool and airy. Once again we felt immersed, fully in touch with all our senses. The smell of warm rain, the calming sight of the many shades of green, the touch of the cooler air on our skin, the taste of buttery shortbread. It was all encompassing sensory experience of Forest Bathing.

From the woods we crossed over a railway bridge, pausing to look down on the tracks. At the end of the bridge we lingered to take in the view of the of that lovely blue ribbon unwinding below and the hills beyond.

Blue Mind

As we descended the steps we saw our first evidence of urbin grime with graffitied walls but they could not deflate our sense of wellbeing. We now joined our beloved Old Father Thames. Walking by the water seemed to release yet another set of endorphins.

It seems ironic that 'feeling blue' suggests a sense of depression but there is a new scientific phenomenon called Blue Mind which explores the idea that being near water makes us happy. This is one of the reasons why wild swimming has become so popular and it has to be said that anyone I have met returning from ice cold waters in their dry robes always appear energised and ready to take on their day.

A fresh shower in the morning helps us face the day. Sadly many people will look out on a wet day and decide to stay indoors. After a very wet winter, with dogs to walk, I have found it great to get out regardless of the weather.

Up to now we had walked at one of our fastest paces yet. Perhaps we were subconsiously hurrying to reach the river. I had kept my camera safely stored in my bag, away from the rain. We had been doing nearly 3.2 miles an hour. However now we found ourselves meandering along, strolling through beautiful tree tunnels.

We had glimpses of the Thames between the ladened branches of sycamore, beech and willow.

The surface of the river looked like rippled glass as passing boats created a wake.

Tomb Raiders

We slowed to checked out some of the quirky canal boats. An up turned wheel barrow sat on the bow of one, with no suggestion of a garden or flowers in sight. One might ask if the wheelbarrow is used for the weekly grocery shop.

On another, sat a penny farthing. (The third such bicycle we had seen on our hikes). I very much doubt that is used for a weekly shop.

On the next boat we found some interesting characters guarding this aquatic tomb with Lara Croft looking like she is ordering breakfast whilst a small dog at her feet performed her duty of warding off raiders.

Shortly after, as we approached Reading, the path widening under the willows of the Thames Promenade, Lara ran past, her pony tail swaying with each stride.

The Usual Suspects

Along the way we saw the usual suspects we had become accustomed to meeting on the river. There were Canadian geese, Egyptian geese, greylags, grey herons and swans. We came across this pretty cygnet being chaperoned by her parents. They hissed at us endeavouring to protect what appeared to be their one surviving youngester. No doubt there had been a larger brood.

The cygnet looked very pretty in her grey tresses. She swam a little awkwardly as she tucked one webbed foot over her wing to cool herself.

Feathers were scattered all over the ground creating quite a mess. The waterfowl are busy moulting at present. The breeding season over, it is time to replace their flight feathers in readiness for the autumn migration. They are unable to do little else but sleep and preen.

We found rowers sculling out on the river early, gliding through the calmest waters we had seen so far, the bow cutting through the water like a scissors through satin.

A life belt lay abandoned among the leaf debris at the side of the river.

Bridging the Gap between Nature and Town

We had arrived in Reading. The guidebooks had suggested this was a section we would just have to put up with if we wanted to do the full Thames Path. This was not the ugly, urban nightmare we had expected. Perhaps it would be different in autumn or winter when the trees do not provide a green curtain hiding the industrial estates. Or perhaps it is not the most attractive place during Reading Festival when, I suspect, bins become overflowing if used at all. Fortunately we had avoided that experience.

Looking back over our shoulders we saw the three bridges which cross the Thames in Reading - Caversham Bridge and Reading Bridge with Christchurch Bridge in between.

We felt far enough removed from central Reading here as it is the Kennet rather than the Thames which flows through the shopping centre. We would be doing no dress shopping today.

On we walked surprised at how comfortable we felt despite the weather forecast. The river was looking very pretty with the green and gold reflections on the water.

For a moment we were expecting to find Robinson Crusoe or the Swiss Family Robinson in this amazing abode across the river. The perfect riverside retreat.

Millennium Mile Posts

Then a finger post pointed the way over a bridge where the Kennet meets the Thames. This unusual design is one of a thousand finger posts funded by the Royal Bank of Scotland to mark the millennium and the creation of the National Cycling Network. There are four different designs of finger posts and this one was created by Andrew Rowe who has a nautical background.

Parkrun

Then we continued along the Thames Valley Nature Reserve where I have done my fair share of Parkruns - 21 out of the 68 runs I have done over the years. It was here I did my first ever Parkrun and here I achieved my PB (personal best) with a time of 26:05 - sadly never to be repeated. Some would say it is the easiest Parkrun to do on account of being flat however I found that last 500m, with the finishing line within view all the way but never seeming to get any closer, sheer hell. I would much rather not run with the end in sight. I found it very daunting. Walking along here I was reminded of how hot and exposed it was on summer's mornings offering little shade and only a slight breeze coming off the water.

However, on this day, we found ourselves a pleasant shady spot to have our lunch.

From there the Thames Path did eventually take us through some woodland and shade making it very pleasant and far from the scortching we were expecting.

Before we knew it we had reached Sonning Lock offering lovely views looking across towards Reading Sailing Club on Sonning Eye.

The lock looked stunning in the sunshine with a great array of hollyhocks. It was lovely to find a lock well cared for having found the last few rather unkempt.

We lingered to watch the lock gates open and as boats moved from one end of the lock to the other.

Finding George

Then we continued on towards the bridge at Sonning where our walk came to an end. Michala had hoped to bump into Mr Clooney as his $18M home is on the 5.5 acre island of Sonning Eye, tucked in behind The Mill at Sonning. (I do hope Michala's husband is not reading this nor Amal for that matter). It seems like Michala is on a man hunt and only one man will do.

We very much look forward to picking up this path again next week when we have another chance of finding George. If we do, we might have to shelf our walk for another day or may be I will be shoved out to do it on my own.

A Place of Calm

Before going for some refreshment at The Picnic Hamper, we detoured to the beautiful St Andrew's Church. We found the peace and silence in the church quite moving. There was an amazing aura about this place. We had it to ourselves and could only imagine what the acoustics must be like here. Perhaps we should investigate at some time since this is not far from home at all. We have visited many churches along our way but this place was very special.

There was a raging heat outside now but we finished our walk in a place of calm. Later that afternoon at home, the thunder rumbled and then the heavens opened with rain causing flash flooding. We had made the right decision finishing our walk early.

We had walked 10.65 miles which included our parking place on the edge of the village.

Read all about Day 10 along the Thames National Trail from Sonning to Hurley Lock