It was not even a week since our last trek and we were out on the trail again. We still felt a little out of practice and started off wondering had we forgotten something vital. Running though the mental checklist I felt all was well. We had plenty of water, lunch and snacks including you know what – see Day 7’s blog if you do not understand this reference. I was wearing sun block. I had our trusty Thames Path Official National Trail Guide and most importantly my camera. All was good so off we set.
Let the Fields be Jubilant
Our start point was where we finished last week – in Thames Street, Wallingford. Wallingford is a very beautiful Oxfordshire town. Seeing it in summer was a treat with so many gardens in bloom and particularly those quintessential English country garden flowers – the hollyhocks.
Our first stop was the oldest church in Wallingford, St Leonard’s. Michala was tasked with searching out her Great Grandma’s grave, which we discovered later in fact lies in the grounds of Wallingford cemetery. However, it afforded us the opportunity to stop and investigate the churchyard. Much of the churchyard was given up to nature with a ‘Grow Zone’ to encourage wildflowers and wildlife alongside a quote from Psalm 96:12.
I had no doubt that along the way we would find everything in the fields jubilant and all the trees of the forest singing for joy. Believe me, it did not take long.
Ready to Cat Nap
Straight out of the church and we found our route quaint and quirky. As we crossed the small brook, we admired the timbered houses only to spot a four-legged creature climbing the ramp up to a flap at the top. He paused and looked at us, his eyes heavy and tired. It looked like he had been out an all-nighter and now he was returning home for some much needed sleep or, should I say, a cat nap. Was this the Cheshire Cat? With that gloomy face, I thought not. Fortunately we, on the other hand, found ourselves feeling a lot more energetic than he appeared to be.
Oxford's Elite
I was just updating Michala on what to expect on our walk today, telling her that it is along this stretch that Oxford Brookes have their rowing club when, right on cue some rowers appeared. However, I would not say that these two characters were Oxford’s elite rowers but who am I to say what that looks like nowadays.
Tunnel Vision
A few strides on and we had another special encounter. Michala has learnt the hard way to be wary as soon as a tree tunnel appears before us. All too often she has found herself crashing into me as I come to an abrupt halt at the sight of one.
It is a given - tree tunnels have to be photographed. They have such a beauty about them. It is not just their appearance or the cool they offer from a warm day but it is the affect they have, bringing that sense of calm and reducing the heart rate as you step inside. Perhaps Michala is more absorbed dealing with her injuries or perhaps the tunnel is just what she needs to recover from the shock.
Still barely 15 minutes into our walk and we had already been treated to such wonderful delights. We realised that we were walking along grinning like Cheshire Cats. Charles Dodgson had nothing on us. We were in our own place of magic. The reflections of the river were lighting up the leaves of the overhanging branches, dancing like fairly lights. We skipped our way along the path in excited anticipation for what lay ahead.
From shady paths to bright open meadows, we meandered past oak and willow, between hedges and across the manicured lawns of private gardens.
Whilst Butterflies Danced
Then through Cholsey Marsh Nature Reserve, the meadows were truly jubilant with the mauve of teasels in flower and the actinomorphic field scabious, the sunshine yellow of lady’s bedstraw and ragwort and the deep russet of curly dock against a backdrop of trees in full leaf.
Butterflies danced and flirted from the brightly coloured peacock, the scallop winged comma and the gatekeeper otherwise known as the hedge brown. Banded demoiselles hovered over cow parsley and meadow sweet. Beyond the whispering grasses sat a lichen covered pillbox like come creature trying to adapt to its surroundings, its loopholes like eyes peering out.
From bright sunny meadow to shady tunnels, and along hedgerows with sloes giving a hint of the festive times ahead. However today we had no desire to sit in front of a roasting fire toasting friends over a glass of ruby red sloe gin. Instead we welcomed the cool of the shade on a day that promised to reach 28°C.
Beyond the Shady Willows
When coming upon a bench it seemed right to take a brief rest and hydrate as we watched boats chug along beyond the shady willows.
With the sun filtering through the trees we continued on, enjoying the vibrant colours of foliage and crane’s bill against the stark white of convolvulus.
Then up steps and down again where the path became narrow and we were vigilant for giant hogweed and nettles, Michala aware of perhaps needing to cover her legs.
Somewhere beyond the reeds and undergrowth that blue ribbon continued to wind on, teasing us with glimpses as we stepped our way through this delightful jungle.
A Rare Gift
We encountered a couple on a boating holiday who, much to the horror of their fellow boaters, chose to walk the next 6 miles of the Thames path rather than float their way upstream. They kindly handed us the gift of a dock leaf, warning us of the narrow, nettled path ahead. What we came across had nothing on what they were about to encounter as they continued up river.
Westward Bound
As geese on the water sought shade, we found our own shade by following the boardwalk under Brunel’s railway bridge. Great Western Railway’s passengers in the train above us raced from Paddington heading westward.
We too turned west for but only for a short distance as the path led us from the river into Moulsford.
Walking along the narrow pavement, we spotted the flint-stone façade of St John the Baptist’s Church. It could barely be called a detour and besides churches have two possible things to offer weary hikers – fresh water and a pew. The pew we found outside in the sun and it was here we gave our feet their first treat. Michala boldly stripped her socks off and walked on the soft carpet of grass enjoying the pleasure of easing the pressure whilst I sat modesty curling my toes free of heavy boots. As expected we also found an outside tap however, with hose attached we decided not to use it. We still had enough water to keep going.
It was here that we elected to have our ‘first lunch’. We had decided that it would be prudent to spread our lunch over two sittings to sustain us throughout our walk. At this point we had covered under a third of our hike with 4 miles or so complete.
Sanctuary
Fully refreshed, socks and boots back on, we continued our hike, the path returning us to the river where we discovered the charming Beetle & Wedge - a place like no place else. A place of sanctuary on the edge of the river to relax and soak in the atmosphere.
Did you feel that magnetic pull Michala? I certainly did but, replete from my crab sandwiches purchased on my trip to the coast the previous day, we had no excuse to stop. We had many miles to cover and the day would only get warmer. So it was that we pressed on.
We walked along, passing moorings and ogling at the grand houses with lawns sweeping down to the river. Our chalky track reminded us we were on the edge of the Chilterns.
Soon we found ourselves in Streatley visiting a church where the Rev. Charles Dodgson preached in 1864.
However, we did not linger long in the church as I had a different agenda, looking forward to what promised to be an excellent coffee at the Pierreponts Café. As we crossed over the bridge from Streatley to Goring we peered over the railings at the Canadian geese cooling themselves near the weir.
For the Renegade, Misfits and Adventurers
We very much needed to find shade ourselves and so it was we were headed for the Pierrespont only to be disappointed. It is closed on Mondays. A little disheartened we continued a few paces on, up the high street finding ‘The Miller of Mansfield’. Once again we found a perfect place. Apparently this pub is Michelin recommended and it was quite literally George Michael’s local where he dined at least once a week.
We sat by open windows, enjoying the breeze whilst sipping ice cold drinks and feeling no urgency to face the outside temperatures.
I was very impressed by the service in this lovely pub. The young man behind the bar evidently had our measure. Whilst he served my drink in a glass paying homage to adventurers (we’ll ignore the other two references) he saw Michala as ‘a good old boy’.
Love to the End of Time
Crossing over from the pub we descended to rejoin the Thames Path where we lingered to read the messages to one loved to the end of time by so many. This bridge looked across to the house on the river where George Michael lived.
Hill Climbing along the Thames
It seems that the Thames has many different faces and it seemed, as we walked along this stretch, there was a change in the river’s expression. It was ever so slightly busier than our previous stretches though not as busy as it would be on a weekend. We passed fishermen and dog walkers, paddle boarders and swimmers. The willows continued to line the banks bringing to mind mole, badger, toad and rat. This is their world.
This is my world too as I have walked this stretch many times after a visit to Hartslock Meadows. This time we were not climbing up to those high meadows, however, climb we did. It was a gradual ascent taking us high above the river through pretty woodland, offering us much need shade yet again. Our worries of having to climb in such temperatures were unfounded. Blessed with the shade we found it relatively easy and enjoyed the variety it added to our walk.
Eventually, the climb over we found a fallen log where we partook of our second lunch. From there we found ourselves walking along the drive of Hartslock Farm in the company of a small herd of cows, sociably ambling beside us on the other side of the fence.
The Prettiest View
Our path dropped down into the pretty village of Whitchurch on Thames. As we walked up onto the bridge and past the toll gate, we looked back over the railings at the river and the church beyond, providing perhaps one of the prettiest views we had yet seen.
Crossing over the bridge and onto the opposite bank, we discovered the river in a yet another guise as a young person’s leisure grounds where they fished, swam, sunbathed and picnicked.
The Half Way Point
Our final leg was pretty straight forward, following the open path about a mile to Mapledurham Lock. We had reached the half way point of our hike from source to sea.
So, as Phoebe made her way through the locks on her forward journey we left it for today. We walked the short distance up Mapledurham Drive to my parked car where I gladly changed my footwear and, turning the aircon on full, we set off by road back to Wallingford for Michala to retrieve her car.
What a day we had had. We felt proud to have completed this leg unscathed despite the temperatures. The gentle breeze and the many offerings of shade had sustained us throughout and we felt jubilant, singing of the many delights we had encountered along the way.
If you want to continuue your journey with us click here for the next leg of our walk along the Thames Path National Trail from Mapledurham to Sonning.
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