It was with a great sense of curiosity and excitement that Michala and I set off on a warm, sunny day on 17th August 2023 Rather than going to open countryside we headed into the big city. We were going to explore London’s Regent’s Canal.
A bit of History
The canal was a latecomer in the industrial revolution, being completed but five years before the first steam train was introduced in 1820. This waterway was used for transporting raw materials and other products in and out of London by connecting the great junction canal to the River Thames. It was the motor car and electrical power which brought on the demise of canals. However, it was not in fact until 1969 that the Regent’s Canal closed to commercial traffic.
We can thank London local councils for giving a face life to the canal paths and turning them into surprisingly beautiful thoroughfares for walkers and cyclists. This is a great way to have a totally different view of London from the busy streets and the bustling crowds, from the toots and hoots of taxis and buses.
Our Route
We walked the canal, crossing the city from west to east, the traffic noise muffled by high hedges and canal walls. Starting from Little Venice, passing Regent’s Park, Camden Lock, King’s Cross, Islington, Haggerston, Victoria Park, Mile End and Limehouse Basin. It was certainly very different from our normal walks, but we enjoyed the canal art on the narrow boats, the graffiti on the tunnel walls, the reflections on the water. Even the fluorescent green algae added to the vibrancy though I am aware how damaging it is to wildlife as this duck weed is suffocating aquatic plants and microorganisms by blocking out the light and restricting growth.
We were able to adopt a much more leisurely approach than some of our previous walks, finding time to linger and enjoy without being pushed along by the city flow. At times we forgot we were walking through the centre of a city with only the suggestion of landmarks.
A Hidden Gem
Leaving Paddington Station behind and finding our way to Maida Vale’s Little Venice and Browning Pool, straight away we were transported to a very different kind of city life.
We walked through what could only be described as a garden grove, full over colour, greenery, climbing plants, flowers, quaintness and quirkiness. Fairy lights, cushioned seating areas, wrought iron garden furniture, hanging baskets and so much more. It felt like we were walking through private allotments and back gardens. This truly is a hidden gem, Lisson Grove.
Concrete, Canal Art and Graffiti
From there we were reminded of our location by concrete, pigeons and graffiti but even that grunginess had its attractions.
It somehow felt acceptable and I was surprised to feel perfectly safe walking alongside a city canal where we could admire the canal art and the intriguing boat names.
Regent's Park
To our surprise we even found ourselves passing by ‘Monkey Valley’, the enclosure for colobus monkeys at London Zoo. We were able to stop and chat at length to zoo staff who look after the monkeys and have trained them to stay above ground in their enclosure whilst visitors can walk on the ‘forest floor’ without the risk of monkeys coming down from their heights. The monkeys were having a nap so we did not manage to see them swinging in the canopy.
On the edge of Regent’s Park, we passed many grand houses including Ionic House with its new classical architecture, one of six villas in the park designed by Quinlan Terry.
Camden Crowds
We stopped off at Camden Lock for a bite to eat for lunch and to explore the market stalls. It was heaving with visitors but in no time we were back along the canal and away from Camden crowds.
Kings Cross
At King’s Cross we discovered a wonderful peaceful haven away from the frantic bustle of the train station. Gasholder Park offers a surprisingly relaxing breathing space between the cast iron frame of the old gas works and a host of mirrors and greenery.
King’s Cross residents and office workers are spoilt for choice with another, very different place to hang out, among an ice lolly art installation at Granary Square.
On through Islington and Hackney we passed bars that had more of a backstreet Milan or Rome vibe than London, particularly the seasonal Towpath Café. What a shame we had already had lunch, though not much further along, we stopped by a canal side café in Shorditch for a much-needed refill of our water bottles and a chance to rest our feet and enjoy a coffee.
Shark Attack
Had we a bit of sunstroke or was the harsh sunlight reflecting off the towpath causing us to hallucinate? There were sharks in the Regent’s Canal. Apparently, there is some controversy centring around these ‘singing’ sharks. There is an argument as to whether they are acceptable as an art installation or whether they are perceived as ‘development’ and therefore require planning permission. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sharks! Certainly, all the original four sharks do not appear to be present any longer with just one in the water whilst another sits on the roof of the building above. You can find out more here.
At Victoria Park we made a detour from the canal to visit the Chinese Pagoda in its rich reds and greens. Red to scare away evil spirits give protection and strength. Green symbolising eternity, though ironically the pagoda is a reconstruction of one that was bombed in World War II.
At Mile End Park we encountered various steel statues including a towpath horse representing the horses that would have pulled the barges up and down the canals in the past.
Soon Canary Wharf and Canada Square sky scrapers came into view with 1 Canada Square, the HSBC building and the Landmark Pinnacle, which was only just built in 2020. The skyline ever changing.
Where the Canal Meets the River Thames
Most surprising for me was our arrival at Limehouse Basin. We had left Little Venice long behind but there was something about this area that reminded me of Venice.
Perhaps it was the fatigue and heat playing tricks again. The kayaks being paddled across the basin and down the canal made me think of the gondolas of Piazza San Marco and the Canal Grande. London really has it all.
Our adventure had come to an end. We had reached the point where the canal connects with River Thames. Where sea going vessels would have loaded or unloaded their ware to be transported on. We on the other hand, were transported onto the Docklands Light Rail and on to the Victoria Line home.
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