Sonning to Hurley Lock
On Friday 29th August we reached a section of the Thames Path which feels very local for us. Both Michala and I are familiar with parts of this stretch of the Thames. It was nice not to have to spend hours on Street View in Goggle Maps looking for places to park. We knew exactly where we needed to go.
With the luxury of a local walk you might have thought we would have started off later than normal but in fact these last two walks have involved a 7 o'clock start on the road - the motivation was to get going before the day became too warm.
Autumn in the Air
Starting from Sonning we joined the path just a few minutes before 8am. There was a real chill in the air and I wondered if perhaps I had made a mistake wearing shorts and a t-shirt. I was pretty sure this part of the path was well maintained, so long trousers would not be essential as protection against nettles or giant hogweed. After a wonderful, warm dry summer I had not expected this shock of cold air.
It felt like the season was turning and autumn had crept up on us. The musty scent of pink hooded Himalayan Balsaam was a reminder that our summer days were coming to an end. Soon our distances would be dictated by the number of daylight hours and we would be restricted to weekend walks. We had to make the most of this.
It was with an element of uncertainty we made our way along the Thames Path National Trail. We could not be sure what distance we were going to be walking as we were aware that there would be a major diversion off the path, routing around flood damage.
The flood damage may well have dated back to the last time I walked along this stretch of the river when I found the path totally submerged. My walking companion and I had to retrace our steps back almost ten miles. The alternative would have been an unpleasant walk along a busy road back to Henley. Fortunately, today, the path was firm and dry.
Time for Reflection
We set off at a really good pace, reaching 2.7 miles per hour. Perhaps this was due to the fact that the area was familiar so I was not pausing so much to take photographs. Instead we shared in our appreciation of the outdoors and how much we value this time. Giving us time to reflect on the good things in our lives.
By the time we reached Shiplake College, we stood on the bridge admiring the clearest of waters below, the gentlest of breezes rippling across the surface. The day had warmed up and as I removed my fleece I was grateful for my choice of attire.
Diverted away from the River
From Shiplake we found we no longer had the river to guide us towards London and the open sea. We no longer had the National Trail symbol of the acorn to reassure us we were on track. Instead we had laminated blue arrows to follow.
We were pleasantly surprised to find our path remained rural, having assumed we would be walking through housing estates and along village streets. Our route took us along green lanes and woodland. We decided this 2.2 mile detour was not going to be so bad after all
However, after a mile or so we realised that we had gone astray. The laminated arrows had fizzled out. Michala had taken a photo of the detour map but it provided little help. I was very grateful to have the OS Maps App on my phone and it is this that enabled us to find our way. We had headed too far west, missing Harpsden Wood and skimming Upper Bolney and High Wood. Instead of retracing our steps we found Chalk Hill Road and turned off the surprisingly busy road to climb Drawback Hill, for which the only drawback was the steep climb but it offered us great views. From there we had a straight route leading us back down hill to the Thames and Marsh Lock.
Perhaps I should have printed out the information about the detour. (A lesson learnt for future detours). If you are walking this anytime soon I suggest you take these details with you. However, the landscape looked very different for us with the trees in full leaf as compared to the trees, stripped of their leaves in the diversion guide.
When we were not worrying about our route we very much enjoyed our walk through the woods, aware that the closer we were getting to London the less opportunity we would get to forest bathe.
Back to the River
Thanks to the Ordinance Survey and our love of maps, we eventually arrived at the river. I was exhausted and very much ready for my lunch. We had hoped to eat much earlier to fuel ourselves but kept going just in the hope of finding our way back on track. On account of our fatigue we did not explore far along the wooden causeway at Marsh Lock. Instead we turned our attention towards finding a bench on which to sit, rest our weary legs and munch our lunch.
Thankfully, Mill Meadows provided us with plenty of choice. I thought of grabbing a bench all to myself and sleeping but instead we sat side by side looking out at the beautiful ribbon of blue and green. We were glad of a seat in the sun as the wind whipped up sending ripples over the surface.
The Healing Glade
Behind us, on Mill Meadows is 'a healing glade'. This is part of a 'Greener Henley'. Ten years ago a glade of nine trees were planted in the formation of 'sacred geometry' by the Be Well Centre. Each tree was plant with a crystal and watered with mead. As we rested, the healing powers of the trees did their work. The hawthorn, lifting out spirits, cleansing me of negative thoughts of not being able to continue. (Perhaps I should explain that I had done a walk around Avebury the previous day and that, as well as the long drive, had left me fatigued). The rowan filled us with a sense of power and trust in ourselves that we were up to the challenge. The birch, 'the lady of the woods', told us we would be safe and overcome our difficulties and the elder suffused in her healing powers to keep us healthy and well. May the power of those trees remain with us and keep working their magic.
Well on the way to recovery, we continued on into Henley, our path much busier now having barely encountered a soul since Sonning.
The George
It is a wonder Michala did not mention to me that George Harrison lived locally, in Friar Park or that Dusty Springfield had been laid to rest in the church yard of St Mary the Virigin, just visibile to us in the distance. She had after all focused on the fact that we had passed George Michael and George Clooney's residence on previous days along the Thames Path National Trail. There seems to be a theme here with anyone named George being drawn to a riverside location.
Britain in Bloom
Henley is a very popular town, drawing large crowds, not just during the first week of July when the Royal Regatta is in full swing. Henley has won seven gold medals in eight years for the regional rounds of Britain in Bloom. It surprised me to read that in fact they have not entered the competition since 2019. (Perhaps lockdown played a part in this).
It appears that they want to build up to the event and hope to re-enter the competiton next year. They recognise that there is much more to it than planting a few hanging baskets and pots with geraniums and fushias. Henley is moving with the times, recognising the needs for biodiversity and addressing the issues relating to climate change.
It seemed to us that the town was looking fabulous with large swaths of blooms lining the edge of the path, adding a vibrant flouncy embellishment to the already beautiful river with pristine boats moored along the jetties.
Henley is a popular place to eat or to take a boat out on the river. We did explore the idea of hiring a self-drive boat to take us down river to Hurley however there was the issue of getting the boat back. I have a tow bar on my car but no trailer. So on we plod, instead looking for a place to grab a coffee to give us an extra push to today's finishing line. We were currently at the half way mark.
Henley Regatta
Having crossed over the bridge from Oxfordshire to Berkshire we found ourselves following alongside the Henley Regatta Course. Up until a month ago, these pristine green meadows would have been home to a multitude of white marquees and we would have had to take a slightly different course.
I had worried about this stretch of the river knowing how open and exposed it can be on a warm day when there is little in the way of shade for quite some distance. We were grateful for the clouds that had gathered. The going was easy so we happily walked at a good pace gripping our coffee cups, waiting for our brew to cool.
Henley Literary Festival
Before leaving the Upper Thames Rowing Club we found ourselves a bench on which to sit and we sipped our coffees. With thoughts of the forth coming Henley Literary Festival, at which a favourite author, David Nicholls will be speaking, I realised that at no point had we removed our boots and I had forgotten about Michael Bradshaw’s special tip to Marnie Walsh when hiking coast to coast, to change into a second pair of socks. However, David Nicholls' characters were there and we were here without spares. I wriggled my toes within my boots and hoped that would provide me some relief. At least the Healing Glade had done some work giving us both strength.
River and Rowing Museum
As we left Henley behind, still thinking of great english literature, it struck me that we had given no thought to Mr Toad, Ratty, Badger or Mole. Perhaps this was because so much of our route had deprived us of the main feature of our walk - the river and the joy of watching the wind swaying the silver leaves of the willow. Yet Henley is home to the River and Rowing Museum which I visited years ago, with a group of 5 year olds, to explore the river bank world in 3D models - a delight well worth a detour if you have never been.
Finding a Cool Space
Not far on, we eyed the flint stone tower of St Nicholas Church peeping out between the trees. It was a small detour to take and remembering the aura of Sonning’s church we wondered what might be in store for us. An angel beckoned us in.
What we found was a deliciously cool space. In the short time we were there walking the aisles to admire font, pulpit and alter I felt this further aided me to see this day’s walk to the finishing line.
The Naked Lady of Temple Island
Refreshed, we returned to the Thames Path National Trail and paced it out to Temple Island. The naked lady who sits below the cupola has the best view of all and she will have enjoyed watching many a Royal Regatta from her seat high on top of the temple. We had just walked the longest straight stretch of river in the whole of Britain measuring 1 mile 550 yards.
However, now coming out of the straight, the river curved its way to Hambleden Lock. When I have walked this stretch in the past I have crossed the lower lock gates and often stood to watch the white water at the weir. The crashing of the water can be impressive especially after heavy rain when the lock keeper opens an extra gate or two, which brings members of Chalfont Canoeing Club out in their kayaks to make the most of the white water. There was no such activity on this day. The image below was taken at a different time.
Continuing on we found ourselves walking through the deer park of Culham Court where white deer grazed among the red undisturbed by our presence.
Passing through the gated deer fence back onto the water meadows we knew we were on the home straight, on familiar ground. Michala pulled out her packet of buttery shortbread to provide us with the energy to finish.
Then, with Hurley lock in sight, we knew we had made it.
This was the end of our 16.5 mile walking along the Thames Path National Trail and we felt truly elated.
You can read about our next leg - Day 11 from Hurley to Boveney
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