Hurley Lock to Boveney
On Monday 2nd September Michala and I had the luxury of yet another local leg along the Thames Path National Trail. Michala knew her way to Boveney having done a number of runs in the area and our start point on the walk was Hurley, well known to both of us.
What’s The Hurry
We would happily have set off earlier in the morning but we read that the gate to the Ramblers' Car Park at Boveney would not open until 8 o’clock. Who are these Ramblers, we thought, who are happy to set off so late in the morning? Little did we know how this would impact our walk.
We arrived at Boveney promptly at 8am only to find the gates already open. It was frustrating to know that we might have been able to drop the car there much earlier and even more frustrating to note a sign which read 'Car Park Closes Promptly at 4pm'. A closing time of 4 o'clock on winter's days seems perfectly acceptable but on this particular day the sun would be setting almost 4 hours after gates were shutting. This was going to impact our walk. It was doable but we would have to check our time throughout.
Walking in the Rain
We crossed over the bridge at Hurley where all the boats moored up looked like they were fast asleep as a soft, calmness appeared all around. Sounds were muted as a fine rain fell on us. We had barely taken any paces and we had to stop to pull on rain jackets. In the past I might have thought to postpone a walk having seen rain forecast, however, with the temperatures still high and a desire to keep my feet moving, I was fully committed as was my walking buddy, Michala.
Besides, we felt cheerful enough with all the beautiful sights and colours on which to feast our eyes. Summer may be at its end but the blooms are still glorious, serving to brighten our day.
The Summer of Yesterday
Only two days into September and it was an unexpected surprise to find that summer had melted into autumn. The season of mists and mellow fruitfulness had crept up on us. In turning over the pages of the calendar from August into September, summer seemed to have been left behind. The sheep in the meadow, to the right of us, huddled together under the horse chestnut, standing their ground as we stopped to stare rather than their usual behaviour of blindly running off to get away from scary humans.
The ground was strewn with fallen leaves, granted some from previous years, however we watched leaves gently floating down from on high.
Like the sheep, we were glad of the trees arching over the Thames Path National Trail, to give us some form of shelter.
Beyond, more boats huddled the banks, staying put with no signs of setting off to pootle down the river.
More Diversions
Having learnt from our experience in the last leg of the Thames Path National Trail, when we were diverted away from the river at Shiplake and, losing all trace of signs, we resorted to OS Maps to lead us back to to the Thames at Marsh Lock, this time we had done our research. We were aware that there was going to be another reroute. It was reported that there would be no signage but I had found, posted on the internet directions and images which I had downloaded to my phone. This time we were confident we could do this without adding unnecessary miles - an important point considering the time restrictions imposed by the car park.
As we were walking at a really good pace we suddenly jammed on our breaks, coming up against railings blocking our way and preventing us from going any further. Sure enough there were no signs whatsoever but fortunately I had noticed a path turning off only a short distance back. We retraced our steps and in no time we were following a path at right angles from the river, heading in the direction of Winter Hill.
Sunny Faces
Almost immediately we were delighted to see a crowd of sunny faces through the rain - a field of sunflowers and, scattered amongst them, the soft mauve of tansy. We ducked under the hedge to have a look. The sight certainly took the sting out of the rain. We felt remarkably unbothered about the inclement weather. When you have the gear it really does not matter. Our faces were every bit as sunny as those happiest of flowers.
As we continued on, turning on to Temple Lane, instead of having the river by our side, we passed many an interesting house or garden. We walked at possibly the fastest pace we have walked in the ten days to date along the Thames Path National Trail and certainly faster than we would have walked along the Ridgeway. Before long, we arrived in Bisham. (Had the Thames Path been open we would have been on the opposite bank with a view of Bisham Abbey. Instead we simply saw the entrance gates to the National Sports Centre).
From there we followed the roadside path into Marlow and across the bridge to a path I have often taken at night when I have been on outings with Bracknell Camera Club doing night photography.
Buckinghamshire's Swan Song
Along the way we noticed a striking emblem on many of the lamp posts - a swan in chains with a crown against a bi-colour background of red and black. Michala was on the case and did the research. This is the Buckinghamshire emblem so this apparently appears in many other Bucks towns including High Wycombe, Marlow, Chesham and Buckingham. I will have to go on a hunt next time I am in any Buckinghamshire town.
It is suggested that this choice of emblem may originate from Anglo Saxon times when swans were bred for the king. With the crown, I am inclined to go with this theory however it is also suggested that it might originate from Henry II's appointment of Henry of Essex as Sheriff. Essex's ancestors were 'Swene' and wordplay was very popular at the time.
We made a very short detour to look out across Marlow Weir and the church before continuing along the path, beneath the underpass bridge and then back to our beloved Old Father Thames.
With views of the Thames and Winter Hill we felt truly blessed, emersed in the beauty all around.
All to Ourselves
Arriving at Little Marlow, we found a lovely seat by the river where we treated ourselves to an early lunch. We were in need of fuel to replace energy we had burnt keeping up a fast pace.
I have been to Little Marlow many time before particularly for a very pleasing circular wal. This is a popular location for dog walkers and runners but once again, we found we had the place to ourselves. Was everyone hibernating? It just goes to show that walking in bad weather has the advantage that you have it all to yourself.
From Little Marlow, we pressed on following the meandering Thames Path to Bourne End then over the bridge and on to the National Trust's Cock Marsh. All the way along we enjoyed the views of the castellated and turreted houses, sweeping lawns, impressive boat houses, summer houses and wondered how much the owners actually get to enjoy these places when they are not busting a gut to support their standard of living. There was no sign of life in the grounds on a single property along the way.
The only sign of life was the mute swans, with their heads submerged as they fed on vegetation. Thankfully none were lumbered with the weight of a crown and chain and would not end up at a Royal Banquet.
We remarked that this must surely have been the quietest stretch of the Thames Path we had encountered so far. There was certainly no one else out walking, perhaps a couple of cyclists and yet we had passed by so many towns and villages.
Why oh Wye?
I was amazed to read on a notice board that we were passing the mouth of the River Wye. I could barely credit the unassuming exit of what I viewed as a mighty river in Herefordshire and the Welsh boarders. Once home I did my research and found that there are in fact three River Wyes in England. This river mouth was not the River Wye I knew of but this one is but 11 miles long from its source in the Chilterns.
We were not the only ones enjoying this view today. My heart goes out to the little one who must be missing their beloved comforter.
Somehow, along the way those autumnal signs had disappeared and we were back to canopies of green. The canopy was reflected on the surface of the river creating a beautiful emerald ribbon.
A Scandalous Affair
Opposite us was Cliveden, owned by the National Trust and previously the Astors. Perhaps Cliveden is best known on account its part in the Profumo Affair. It was in the pool at Cliveden that Christine Keeler and Mandy Rice-Davies frolicked with a suspected Russian spy during the Cold War. (I was but a babe in arms when this scandal kicked off but years later I found myself working alongside Mandy's younger brother, David).
Further along we encounter Battlemead, which used to be part of Astor’s Cliveden Estate but well before that it was the site of Civil War skirmishes in the 17th century and battles between Vikings and Anglo-Saxons in the 9th century. No such battles rage now unless the sly old fox is creeping up on unsuspecting fowl. Today Battlemead offers a great location for wildlife from wildflower meadows, bats, wintering ducks and geese and many more birds including amber listed birds.
What is so wonderful about the Thames Path National Trail is the number of sites I have noted worthy of a return visit and a closer look. I have already revisited Days Lock, near Wittenham Clumps having identified it as a great place for wildlife and now Battlemead has been added to my list along with Cock Marsh at Cookham.
Tapas by the Thames
Soon we found ourselves at Boulters Lock. This is familiar territory for me as I used to live in Bray, just further down the river. I used to wheel my daughter Harriet in her pram to visit the best fed guinea pigs in England. Today we would not have time to investigate whether the guinea pigs were still thriving . However, we checked our mileage and timings and worked out we would have time to stop for some refreshment.
We crossed over the lock onto the island and went into The Boathouse, a gastro pub which is perfectly placed, offering views over the river. The atmosphere indoors was very welcoming. However, wanting to keep close to Old Father Thames, we elected to sup outside. We ordered our coffee and waited. Then fancying a nibble we ordered a couple of tapas plates - lamb kofkas and tempura courgette fries - simply delicioius. This is definitely a place to which we must return.
Just down from Boulters Lock we reached Maidenhead Bridge and I was struck by the new housing developments. The face of the place having changed considerably since I lived in Bray nearly 30 years ago. However, I have heard that there has been little change in Maidenhead itself and it still needs a bit of a face lift. This is a shame as I believe Maidenhead has such potential.
Photographers Prefer Stormy Skies
Standing on Maidenhead bridge, rather than being discouraged by the stormy skies, made me think that we must not let the weather deter us as it really provides some wonderful photo opportunities. However, on this occasion we had to press on.
Unfortunately, stopping off at the Boathouse did cost us in time as it appeared that we might barely make it to Boveney before the gates of the car park would be locked. We had to push on and increase our pace. We even discussed Michala leaving her bag with me and she would sprint on to the finishing line.
It was full steam ahead and from here on we could only allow ourselves stop for a very few photos of which, a floral boarder leading down to a jetty was irresistible.
Clock Watching
This was such a lovely stretch of the Thames Path with gorgeous wooded paths, the sunlight filtering through. All the way Michala had Google Maps tell us how much further we had to go and our ETA. It was going to be close.
There was no time to stop at Bray Lock and Monkey Island. We pushed on under the underpass of the M4.
Pausing briefly as a heron, who had stood on the path ahead, took off and flew low above the water.
We came across a Millennium Mile Post funded by the Royal Bank of Scotland . We had first encountered these just down from Tilehurst. The one near Tilehurst was a Rowe milepost however this one was a Mills Milepost designed by Jon Mills. The post is meant to be an abstract form of a tree with images of primitive life forms in relief. I would very much have enjoyed taking a closer look. Having researched further I find that we may well come across another Rowe Milepost as we come into Eton and perhaps again in Greenwich depending on where the path leads us.
We sped along under the green tunnels leading all the way to Boveney arriving back with but a few minutes to spare.
What a shame we had to rush this leg and it is on this basis that we have agreed we need to find an alternative parking space when we pick up on the next walk along the Thames Path National Trail.
The Joys of Walking in All Weathers
We were both agreed that this really was a beautiful stretch of the river and we very much enjoyed these walking conditions. It set me in mind of Melissa Harrison, who loves to walk in all weathers and her Rambling with Clare Balding when she extolled the pleasures of walking in rain. She says that walking only on a sunny day is like listening to music only in a major key which means you missing out on half the experience. We certainly enjoyed a fuller picture on this wonderful of days along the Thames Path.
You can read about our next leg - Day 12 from Boveney to Staines
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