Boveney to Staines
On Sunday 8th September Michala and I were delighted to be back out on the trail following the Thames Path for a second time within 7 days. It was a last minute decision, and despite noting some poor weather ahead we were not deterred.
We were able to start our walk at 8:30am as Michala's husband dropped us at Boveney and our return journey would involve taking the train.
Season of Mists
We set off with a bounce in our step feeling thrilled to get moving. There was a thin veil of mist but it was warm and muggy despite thunderstorms the night before. We carried rain coats, prepared for rain at some point.
Another Millenium Post
A short distance on and we were already stopping to take photos. We discovered another Mills Millemium Finger Post running along a parallel path. It was a beautiful, prestine example of these posts. It was great to get a chance to study this as we had been in such a hurry on the previous leg when we had found one such post after Maidenhead. This 'fossil tree' illustrates the passage of time from early life forms to the demise of fossil fuels.
A Worthy Cause
Today we had no time pressures, however, we picked up the pace when we encountered a number of marshalls placing signs out for a charity half marathon walk. We did not want to find ourselves 'swimming' against a tide of walkers spread across our path. After all this was our path which we had not really had to share up until now. We had become very selfish about the Thames Path like a toy that belonged exclusively to us.
These hikes are a worthy cause. We walk for our own mental health. We feel the heart rate lower, we feel our lung capacity expand and we feel a sense of joy in every step we take. Our worries recede and we very much live in the moment. However, of course we were very happy to share the path for a worthy cause.
The charity walk is known as the Sunflower Walk organised by Thames Hospice, who offer palative or end of life care in the East Berkshire and South Buckinghamshire area. It seemed appropriate that alongside the circuit which the walkers would be following were a few sunflowers still smiling.
Athens
Arriving opposite Windsor Race Course we discovered ourselves transported to the Greek capital, of Athens. Athens was the name given to an area of the Thames where boys from Eton College would have gone swimming in the past. There were strict rules imposed regarding nudity should any boats with ladies on board pass by. They had to either jump into the river or hide behind screens. Interestingly Eton College now call their swimming pool Athens.
Words flowing like a the river
Just downstream from Athens, we crossed over a footbridge where Michala made a delightful discovery which is mentioned in neither of our guide books, nor can we find out anything about it online. Carved on the railings of the bridge were a series of poetic phrases. The question is, are these stand alone lines or do work as a whole? Both Michala and I worked at these to try to make some sense of them. We have no answers. Perhaps you can find a different flow. There is something rather beautiful about these words.
My love I remember the river,
Where our plans landed in mud.
So many petals, so many trees
The leaves make shshsh.
Skylarks sweeping through dance,
The swans flapping feathers amongst roses.
No one knows how except Annie
And the shell searching boy oh joy.
A wheel turns slowly.
From where we stood, certainly, those horse chestnut leaves whispered 'shshsh'.
Grafitti or Art?
We continued on only to stop yet again, discovering the striking mural under the Queen Elizabeth II bridge. This mural has generated much controversy. Many were disgusted at the hypocrisy of allowing and questioning what counts as art rather than graffiti. Many predicted that it would be defaced in no time. This mural, The Games Walk Olympic Mural, was painted in 2012 as part of an art trail from Eton to Dorney. It aimed to comment on attitudes towards young people. We were in awe of the artistry but did not know that this exhibit offers something for the visually impared as it is in fact an interactive mural. Apparently, with the use of a smartphone app pointed towards the mural, video and audio clips play out. I have not been able to find out exactly which app it is. It would be interesting to go back and try it out if I could only find out more.
Next we found ourselves at the Brocas which I had only discovered a month ago when, on a trip with Bracknell Camera Club I had photographed the full moon rising over the keep of Windsor Castle.
The Big Blue
We continued across the meadows arriving in Eton and crossed over the bridge into Windsor. It was here, under a big blue sky, we encountered another charitable event with a large group of cyclists pushing their bikes across the bridge to arrive at the start of their race, raising money for Prostate Cancer in the Big Blue Bike Ride.
With the flow of cyclist past, Michala and I crossed over the bridge as the bells of St George's Chapel rang out. We descended steps and joined the opposite bank. We were struck by the gleam of the river, shiny like the jewels in the crown, the now blue sky was reflected on the water. We were thankful that we had not been deterred by the weather forecast, joyful to be outside breathing the clean air.
Castle View
We were struck by the quiet. We had left behind the bustle of Windsor, not tempted to make our way to the entrance of the castle as this is so familiar to us. We followed the banks and felt as if we were back in some rural back water. I was expecting to be treated to a view of Windsor Castle and when we did not pass it immediately I assumed I was confused with some other path. What I had not considered is that the Thames at this point does quite a loop, passing Romney Lock and then eventually curving round to Home Park bring the castle, in all its splendour, back into view.
Below the keep and the north terrace state apartments young children played rugby watched by their parents.
From Blue Skies to Grey
It had snuck up on us. What had happened the blue skies? Grey clouds swept across overhead. The mizzle started, warning us to stop and don raincoats. In no time we were walking in driving rain. With heads bowed down we picked up the pace, passing across Victoria Bridge and later Albert Bridge, the day transformed. Suddenly it seemed noiser too with the sound of aircraft taking off at Heathrow Airport. It seemed as if the planes were barely skimming the tree tops.
Despite the heavy rain, at no point were we discouraged. Should the rain continue all the way from here to Staines, we would have no regrets having already enjoyed so may wonders. We pressed on extolling on the joy of experiencing and feeling all seasons and all weathers since we started at the source. It is remarkable how each and every day has its own personality, its traits defined by the weather, the season and the features along the Thames Path.
Lunch Stop
As we walked on, heads bowed, visibility reduced by droplets on glasses, hair dripping on faces, we remarked how typical that we were seeing benches with perfect views for a lunch stop but on this occasion it was too wet to sit down and we had not actually brought any lunch.
We pressed on thankful for any shelter we could get under the canopy of trees, stepping over puddles.
But still happy to stop and admire the ripples on the river.
Finally we were relieved to find ourselves at the Magna Carta Tea Room. I fumbled my way indoor, glasses fogging up, barely able to read the labels on the sandwiches on offer. We both selected much needed toasted sandwiches and drinks, pealing off our water proofs, relieved to be out of the rain.
Fickle Weather
Satiated, we emerged from the cafe only to find that the rain had gone and we were welcomed with blue skies yet again. We passed back across the road to pick up the path.
Being local we did not feel the need to linger at Runnymede but if you have not been here before there is much to see with the Magna Carta Memorial, the JFK Memorial, the Royal Air Force's Memorial and much more.
Among the attractions is Ankerwycke with the ruins of St Mary Magdalene's Priory where there stands a yew tree which is a remarkable 2500 years old. It is said that Henry VIII courted Anne Boleyn by this tree.
The sun dried our clothers as we followed alongside the flood plains and leisure grounds of Runnymede bringing us to Bellweir Lock. The fluffy white cumulus clouds gathered high above.
We were totally in awe with the change of the weather and hoped the clouds were not a precursor to cloud bursts later in the day.
Not long after Bellweir Lock we found ourselves walking under the A308.
Then with a final look at the shiny, glassy river we were diverted away from the river and up the side of the bridge onto the under pass of the busy M25.
We walked alongside the road, passed trading estates and into Staines, crossing over the bridge to reach the opposite bank. The contrast between the skies beyond Maidenhead Bridge on our last leg and the skies over Staines was remarkable - a great example of how the river views change.
Swan Upping
Contrary to any impression you might have formed from reading these blogs, Michala and I are not 'swanning our way up river'. If you thought this you are wrong on two counts. Firstly, we are making our way down river to the mouth and secondly Swan Upping has nothing to do with our activies but rather it is an age old tradition of evaluating the health of the monarch's swans. Once a year a troop of the monarch's Swan Captains, dressed in traditional scarlet uniforms, make their way along the Thames checking on the wellbeing of this protected bird.
Our walk, complete for today, we turned away from the river a short distance to the train station with only a short wait before we were heading back home courtesy of South West Trains.
Your can read about our next leg along the Thames Path National Trail from Staines to Hampton Court on day 13 of our hike.
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